WALTZING MY WAY TO OSWEGO

LUCKY TIMING!

2009-10-13T06:38:00.001-07:00

The first night back temperatures plummeted into the chilly 30's. Fortunate for this paddler as my sleeping bag comfort rating was for 20 degrees but realistically was more like 40. Each and every night of the trip it remained above and daytimes were in the 50's. This week is 10 degrees colder both day and night. I just squeaked past! Now, if I just had a colder rated sleeping bag...
According to Jim Teske, the WSYR meteorologist who helps guide my trip date choices, the only other perfect window was the exactly 10-day spell of gorgeous summer weather we had in early September...remember the one? With no rain? Other plans got in the way so this birthday timing was a good second choice.
The lovely thing about living fully outdoors is how quickly one acclimatizes to it. I can't say I felt cold, maybe slightly chilled at times, and downright comfortable the rest of the time. I find the transition to outdoors easier than going back inside.

On reflection after this and other solo ventures I don't feel that what I do is so 'out there' or risky. I always weigh my risks and choose the path of least resistance based on what I know my skills are. It's not always a comfortable path but it's one that I have confidence in. I ask that people who worry about me convert the energy into something positive that I can use, like just being happy for me, for instance.
There are countless books out there written by others who have done far more challenging and risky adventures and lived happily to tell the tale. Reading them inspires me and makes me realize that in the grand scheme of things what I do is quite small by comparison. The important thing is to take the risks that we can live with, to make discoveries about ourselves along the way and to grow in the process.
Growth continues until our last breath. If I didn't do these little trips from time to time life would stagnate for me. Doing them keeps me alive and fresh.
And each time I return I've grown a little more in my understanding and love for those around me.

DAY NINE, EXCELLENT EXCITEMENT AND DRAMA. FINALLY.

2009-10-10T12:24:00.000-07:00

I'm happy this trip has come to an end, but only because it's getting a little colder and a real challenge to find showers (of all things)...
The scenery has been spectacular! Changing leaves in huge expanses of forests and woods. The remote sections were most beautiful of course, and the Oswego River grew more and more beautiful by the mile.
It was a true vacation, unlike the Lake Ontario trip of 10 years ago which had become a way of life. That's what made it hard to quit back then. But this trip has been so much different.
The rivers were tamer, more people and civilization abundantly present. Of course it's the people that make each trip worthwhile and memorable and this one left me fulfilled. There have been so many wonderful and kind people. The latest was my escort today, through the three Oswego locks. Menacing dams with their resulting rapids loomed nearby, all together in the same waterway. Only the approach to the third lock was separated by a wall and with an elevated level it was more like an aqueduct.
I've had the full ramp of weather but it was great finishing today in blasting glorious sunshine after a very sullen last two days and nights with drizzle/rain/drizzle/downpours.
CONTRAST: The rivers on this trip were placid for the most part, easy paddling, and left me wanting (Lake O is usually loaded with drama).
The whole trip was so benign in terms of water conditions until today then BLAM!!!!!!
There were three locks in a row here in Oswego, with drops of 15/15/11 feet. On the left all the way down were these MASSIVELY creepy and scary dams. I felt like I'd get pulled over to them the whole way. I paddled like crazy, keeping my eyes on the locks ahead. I had a pontoon boat guy as an escort. He knew the waterways well and enjoyed keeping me in line. Better still, being a local and friends with the lockmasters he was able to call ahead and ask them to have the water level up for us. We didn't have to wait at all. Indeed, we simply arrived to three open gates and slipped into each of the chambers. I would have been fine traveling alone but it was a pleasant surprise, having him for security. He kinda adopted me. The worst was yet to come, though, and there wasn't much he could've done for me. His boat was bucking like a bronco, too.
After the last lock there was Lake Ontario staring at us, big and wide and open with huge wind thrashing in from the NW. It was kicking up chop and big snarly whitecaps like crazy in the channel which collided with the massive current coming down from the dams, creating haystacks. The waves were crashing over the protective sea wall, adding to the soup and it was all bouncing off the walls on both sides, confused wave drama above anything I've experienced before. The boat was getting tugged and shoved every which way and all I could do was relax and wiggle with the punches. I didn't capsize but it was hard work keeping it upright. Of course as soon as it was over I wanted more!
He led me into an inner harbor (I never would have found it) where I was able to sidle up to a low wooden dock and pull me and my partner out of the water. I'd come to think of me and my boat as the famous "two drifters, off to see the world" of Moon River fame.
Nearby was a shower and it was blasting hard with a never-ending supply of hot and hotter water.
The End.
Really, it was over, just like that.
And now I'm enjoying this sun and heavy wind in Oswego, walking up and down the hills of the town, over and across the river on each of the three bridges, a stop at the libe and afterwards a late lunch at this great looking cafe. I'm famished.
Tanglefoot's concert Saturday night was rollicking and romping and as loud as it could be, which always enhances the experience. The crowd was going wild! The house was sold out. It's their farewell tour and this last chance to see them wasn't lost on anyone.

DAY SEVEN, LIKE BUDDAH

2009-10-09T06:11:00.000-07:00

Paddling on the rivers has been so easy and smooth, like paddling in butter. No really, even with a headwind yesterday it was easy paddling. The way the rivers meander and provide shelter from the wind, there were only moments, not hours, when the wind was right in my face. Unlike the wide open expanse and fetch of the wind (the distance wind travels over water until it meets a sail or other obstacle) on big old Lake Ontario, this river paddling has proven itself a simple pleasure.
Memories of Lake Ontario are still vivid. Paddling hard for hours into a headwind, cramping my neck, back and shoulders to beyond the point of pain, then hoping for recovery in the afternoons and evenings, then starting it all over again the next day. I could do this forever.
Someone asked me if I'd heard of the two guys who just paddled the Mississippi. I hadn't but I've heard of others over the years. No wonder they can go the whole distance! It's easier than open water. Ah, of course. And to think I blew off the idea of paddling the entire Barge Canal 10 years ago...what was I thinking?
I'm very glad I made the decision back then to paddle Lake Ontario, it was so remote and beautiful and more of an adventure. This is laid back and easy by comparison.
The upshot is that I'm eating up the miles without a lot of effort and it feels great!
The Oswego River is really beautiful. There are stretches that feel so remote, without houses or camps and only a few channel markers, and without overhead wires, it makes it feel like wilderness, as if paddling the Adirondacks, for instance.
Leaves up here are halfway changed toward full blown autumn and the reflections on the calmer waters are a never-ending pleasure. What matters that we've all seen autumn several dozen times before in our lifetimes? It's always refreshing and a pleasure and over with too quickly. A brief and fleeting moment we always anticipate.
I slept on the screened porch of my sister's friend's house on the river last night, and will sit out the rain here today. If they return from their road trip early, we get a chance to chat and the rain slacks off I may make for Oswego this afternoon. Or halfway there anyway. With three locks between me and Lake Ontario I dread the delays.
Yesterday's three locks went without a hitch. It's a pleasure to arrive to a green light with the lock gates wide open, welcoming me into the chamber. The two Fulton locks are both a drop of 27' and are spaced a half mile apart. They, too, were wide open with the water levels high so it was a breeze passing through.
This next stretch, and because tomorrow's Saturday, it could be so very busy that I may have to wait and wait for an open gate. Shaving off some of the mileage today would be prudent.
Still, the privilege of watching the weather on TV and sitting at a computer for a moment on a rainy day is hard to resist...
Twelve miles yesterday, thirteen miles to go.

DAY SIX, SITTING IT OUT

2009-10-07T09:12:00.000-07:00

WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 7
Sitting it out today in friendly, comforting little Phoenix. I parked the boat and tent just this side of the lock yesterday, wandered around the sweet riverside village a bit, then came back just before closing time of the lock (5pm) to find the lockmaster had left early.
Things happen for a reason.
Had a lovely visit on the dock with neighbor Carolyn's son, Larry, and his wife and two boys. They were so inquisitive of the kayak and all the gear. Oldest son, Mason, is worldwise, having traveled to Peru this summer. After a full day without human contact it was lovely to be greeted by friends.
Another couple stopped by, out walking the dog. Lively chatter for nearly an hour, lovely respite on an otherwise quiet day.
Earlier, I got to spend time with the energetic and friendly owner Tammy at her State St. Cafe, a wonderfully trendy shabby chic eating place on the waterfront. You have to visit this town by kayak! It's a wonderful trip up from Baldwinsville, or there's a closer put in at Three Rivers. The paddle from Three Rivers was reminiscent of being in the Adirondacks, despite there being no mountain backdrop. It was remote and beautiful with no houses or camps, abounding in autumn leaf splendor. A welcome respite from the earlier trendy and pricey condos crowding the shoreline above Liverpool and Onondaga Lake.
This little village is loaded with character and friendliness. They greet and welcome boaters who are locking-through and seem to have ample patience to visit. Courtesy abounds here.
The tent's pitched at the far end of a long wooden dock running along the shoreline. I'm barely visible there. We had a doozie of a storm between 4-5 a.m. It tested the strength of the tent with the blasts of wind but I smiled all the way through the thunder and lightning that rumbled on and on. The rain pummeled but the tent withstood it all.
Back to Tammy's for breakfast and on to the library for some quality computer time.
Just got word from sister Susan of a friend whose camp is located about 9-10 miles upriver. I've been invited to step inside and stay a while. She's away two days, hopefully I'll get to meet her when she returns. I hear the shower's hot! Let's see, it's been two days now, not smelling so bad yet. I may make a dash for it between rain showers. Unless that devil wind has other plans.
Today's prediction is for 30-45 mph West wind with a 60% chance of rainstorms. Perhaps if I stick to the lee side of the river the wind will blast overhead. Or not.
Paddling hard for five days now with good mileage, today's rest is w/o guilt.
Sleeping deeper and longer now. Ahhh...
Another reason to visit Phoenix:
CHUPACABRA
A lovely couple who delve in real estate and who own one of the waterfront buildings here in Phoenix have opened a small museum dedicated to their love of all things between us and prehistoric life on earth. This is a serious and wonderful little museum, I have a hunch there are bigger things in their futures.
For now they're featuring the first preserved Chupacabra, ever. I'd never heard of them before but there's plenty of info on line. This specimen was found in Texas near the Mexican border at a taxidermist's business. They had the money in hand and could promise it the next day. Smithsonian, National Geographic, Animal Planet, Discovery and a host of others converged on this guy for two weeks.
A couple of boys in Berkshire (of all places and near Ithaca) found one, caught it and kept it in a horse trailer. It wouldn't eat or drink so after several days their older brother shot it. Maggots did their part and all that was left was the skeleton and some hide. These are all in the museum.
Some say it's a legend in the same category as Big Foot. I'd say their evidence is quite compelling.
Another reason to spend some time here, and well worth the $5 entry fee. Co-owner Christine gave me the tour herself. Go here for more info of the Lost World Museum.
Zero miles today. So far.

THANKS, FRIENDS, FOR ALL YOUR KIND WORDS ON FB AND IN EMAILS, KEEP 'EM COMING! IT'S GREAT HAVING THEM THERE WHEN I CHECK IN. Thanks heaps!

2009-10-06T13:23:00.001-07:00

DAY FIVE, DUCKS ON A LOG

2009-10-06T12:59:00.000-07:00

TUESDAY, OCTOBER 6
Eighteen miles today, in four hours.
It seems that every single log lying on the water, but only on the west shore, had either ducks or geese sitting or standing on it. All eighteen miles, around every bend. Every kind of duck and goose there is. The wild ones, even the tame white ones...you know those beauties, with orange beaks and feets. Hundreds of Canada geese, of course.
Only one unusual bird today...a crane, finally! Sitting atop the wall before the lock in Phoenix.
The nature of the river changed once on the East side of Cross Lake, then again today as I rounded the big bend and started heading north. The river plunged southeast toward Onondaga Lake, then veered northeast, then finally northwest toward Oswego.
I really wish I had my camera today! Not only have there been fantastic fall and water fowl images but, BUT the sign that meant the most was the one in the little region called Three Rivers, NW of Syracuse. The sign says "Oswego 24 miles."
At this rate I'll be in Oswego by Thursday so will head out onto Lake Ontario for old times' sake.
Paddling on the rivers (not canals, as the residents would like to have you know) is easy but, BUT, Lake Ontario is a bit more exciting, more dramatic. That's alright, this time of year it's too hard to depend on conditions being favorable so it was a safety measure, heading "inland" for this trip.
TRIP STATS
Or am I really that bored with a paddle in my hands and nothing else to do but paddle, paddle, paddle?
4,623 ~ Times I've hummed, whistled or sung "Lover's Waltz."
262 ~ times I've hummed, whistled or sung "River" by Bill Staines.
135 ~ Times I've hummed, whistled or sung "Ookpik Waltz."
Other paddling tunes: Canadian voyageur paddling songs and just about any waltz.
No more paddling/waltzing/ tunes tape repeating!!! Enough, time for quiet on the water.
Spotted, the usual suspects:
Dozens of great blue herons.
Two green herons.
Two whistler swans flying overhead early on, Seneca River. Caught up with them again this morning SE of B'ville! Or maybe two other whistlers that looked just like them. One of them had its wings raised on the sides, head down and looking ferocious and paddling toward me...He still looked beautiful even though menacing.
Dozens of bass jumping clear out of the water, splashing like crazy.
Dozens of carp shocked into wakefulness from their sloggy soft mud beds when I come ashore to pee. They almost capsize the boat.
Early on, Seneca River: two osprey, two eagles (!) and today two more osprey, one with fish in its talons!
By the score: crows, blue jays and loads of squawking kingfishers looping along the shoreline.
Mallards. Thousands. And just now, a different duck, I'll see if I can find a name for it. All black w/white chest.
And one tiny little brownish/grayish diver, spending most of its time underwater, just poking its head up for a look-see...what is it?! If it were black it would be a coot, same size.
Just heard we're supposed to have heavy downpours tonight. I'll set up my tent at a little canoe/kayak boat launch just past the lock. So far, so good, dry tent interior. Next day is usually clear, tent dries easily while breakfast is in the works.
I'm really tired today! I could sleep right now.
Seventy two miles down, 23 to go. Or something like that.

DAY FOUR, UP A LAZY RIVER

2009-10-05T15:41:00.000-07:00

MONDAY, OCTOBER 5
Still in the Seneca River but all is beautiful now past the swampiness of Montezuma. Terrain is more interesting and the trees are more forest like, not swampy trees, dark and forboding. Friendlier trees, somehow.
Been spot bathing but no true shower since leaving home. Clothes starting to smell, too. Had two things in mind today, find shower and laundromat.
Couldn't believe the timing! Landed at the first marina I've seen, in Baldwinsville, and it starts to rain just as I notice a Shower sign. Hooray! It's pouring cats and dogs and I'm inside lathering up with a heater blasting away from the ceiling. Just enough room to turn around, shower like needles. I felt like a million bucks.
I shop at the local P & C after a much needed 10-minute walk. Nothing like uphills and downhills to really stretch out! Had to buy a new shower curtain for a ground cloth. Could not take the guano one with me, couldn't bear to even put it in kayak, dumped it in a neighbor's garbage can in morning.
The lure of the library and its banks of computers snags me, laundromat across the street, Chinese take out next door. Life is good. I'll set up my tent in this massive gazebo in the village park, now that it's dark. It's only 7:00 p.m. for Pete's sake!
Tomorrow, another lock then on to Phoenix and a visit with a neighbor's son, his wife and their two sons. I'm really looking forward to this!
A journalist with the Oswego daily is tracking me down, I'll get to do an interview with her again. After all, it's my second time landing in Oswego by kayak, and always on my birthday!
Fourteen miles today.

DAY THREE, CORMORANT GUANO (ugh!)

2009-10-05T15:26:00.000-07:00

SUNDAY, OCTOBER 4
Dragging butt this morning. Spending time visiting with David and Ellen, their cat Buddy (sweetheart!) and neighbor David. Drinking REAL coffee. Another kettle of hot water for my breakfast, I'm getting spoiled. Time well spent with wonderful people!
All stood stock still and listened as two trumpeter swans fly by overhead.
David showed me his tractor seat collection, very impressive. Had no idea there were so many brands. Plastered all over his wall, and knew a lot of their history in production. I love tractor seats. I wish I had one to give him.
Paddling in a good rhythm after getting going. Osprey and eagles winging about overhead, calling!!!
Lovely conversation with a fisherman, then off into the rainbow formed at the water's edge on the left and disappearing into high puffy clouds at the apex. Rainbow reflected off the water with a maple adorned with red leaves reflected ahead on the right. What an awesome sight!
Got advice from several people who mentioned a tiny little spit of an island on Cross Lake that I simply must camp on! As I approached there were hundreds of cormorants all over the trees and in huge flocks on the water, all around. They all flew off silently winging their way up the little lake. Guano everywhere but late afternoon decided to stick it out. Set up tent on the 'high spot,' got dinner cooking and watched in horror as a huge wake from a power boat came straight toward the little beach. It touched the side of my tent.
This is too much, everything's already starting to smell like guano and I have no interest in staying here another second. Chowed down the hot meal (Stove Top, instant gravy and chicken out of a pouch) and tore my tent down, trying not to keep getting guano all over everything. Overcast so dark coming on faster than I thought. Hustling, stuffing gear into hatches but all must be neat or it won't fit. I'm feeling really exhasperated but suddenly look up and there's this BIG HUGE YELLOW moon, grinning foolishly at me, peeking out over top of the puffy clouds. Then it's gone, never to be seen again.
Headlamp on, I paddle back the way I came, toward shore, looking for a low lawn of some vacant summer camp. Found one and set up in haste, under a faux gazebo. No rain fly this night! Jumped into the tent and off to sleep. Rain began at dawn.

DAY TWO, LOONS, MONARCHS AND RIVERS

2009-10-05T15:13:00.001-07:00

SATURDAY, OCTOBER 3
Four loons before dawn, just out...there...loud and calling at dawn. Great way to wake up.
Fourteen miles in glorious sunshine with at least 15 monarchs winging their way west. I recall this from Lake Ontario, 10 years ago. Hundreds of them, over my head for 3 full days.
They beat wings furiously upwards for 4-5 seconds, then rest and descend for 3-4 seconds. Repeat.
Hung out all to dry at Cayuga Marina and spent some time chatting with a crazy fun group of boaters, all beer loaded in the middle of a beautiful afternoon. Their weekly ritual.
Through the first lock and met up with 3 kayaking friends from home, what a great surprise! Stopped and chatted, they were headed to the lock for a look. It made my day to see smiling, familiar faces and chat away with them happily.
After the lock it's nothing but rivers from now on. First the Seneca River, and later, after NW Syracuse into the Oswego.
Late afternoon sun glinting off the water under huge overhanging trees with massive gnarled roots. Reflection landing on underside of tree trunk and low hanging branches with dappled red leaves here and there.
Getting dark on the water, paddling too long and late, nowhere to land, tired and emotional. Sobbing, thinking about missing mom. Come around a bend and there, above the cornfield, is the GREAT BIG FULL MOON, staring at me! Hello, old friend. Sadness turned to instant joy at the sight!
Fisherman going past in his run about offered me a place to stay on their lawn. Brought me a kettle of hot water for my dinner so I didn't have to break out cook stove in the dark. Wouldn't have minded but my hostess, Ellen, was so intent on welcoming me.
Turns out, the next a.m., I'm talking about Antarctica and my host, David, says, "Hey, you know Stu Young?" Of course I do! They've been workmates for 30 years. Gets him on the phone, we have a few great laughs. What a wonderful and small world!
My hosts gave me a radio and I fell asleep listening to Fiona Ritchie on Thistle and Shamrock. I tried desperately to tune in Mike Flynn's Folk Sampler but was out of range. I SO had my heart set on it, really bummed I didn't get to hear it. He'd sent me a spoiler before I left home. The theme was "All Heart." I sure hope he can send me the CD...I'm on pins and needles!
Twenty miles on the second day, 64 to go.

D-DAY, DEPARTURE DAY, SHELDRAKE

2009-10-05T14:59:00.000-07:00

FRIDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2009
A day late, weather nasty the day before. Residual wind still hanging in there.
Left from Sheldrake instead of Taughannock, so lost 10 miles from 100-mile trip. Who's counting!
Into a heavy chop with a Southern tailwind. Mid-section of lake giving me thrill rides with straightline surfing, quartering toward Long Point in between the sets. A little nerve wracking. Love the full attention it demands though!
Waves not only cresting but hissing, like a big snakey dragon.
Boat got thrown around a lot, loads of bracing and hip wiggling to keep the boat on track. Big wind from the rear does that.
The boat teaches me: "Relax and let me do my job. We'll both be happier."
Too many nagging thoughts from shore to appreciate light on water, beauty of the day, etc. Sad to be so distracted, just working out the bugs on my first day out, I guess!
Ducked into lee of Long Point then walked off all the tensions with a good long beachcomb. Ask me about my crinoid stem! The best ever. And loads of glass to boost my collection. Some good ones, Karen!
Pushed to Aurora, wind still pesky.
Started to rain just as I came ashore.
Ever eat at Dorie's in Aurora? It's an ancient lunch counter and has the most satisfying creamy soup on a rainy day. It still pleases.
Jay Ungar and Molly Mason played at the Morgan Opera House. They're amazing and great songwriters. They're famous for Ashokan Farewell, written for the Ken Burn's Civil War series on PBS. Now playing on PBS, America's Parks. They wrote a tune for that one, too. It's on line as a free download. Their waltzes are exquisite! I've been listening to them since their Prairie Home Companion Days in the early 1990's.
Slept (?) behind the church, sprinkling off and on all night.
Six miles down, 84 to go.